ADVANCED COURSE
Aerobatic manoeuvres
Low altitude flight
Escort flight
Bombing run
Here is a link to our resident bombing squadron. You will find that their CO has done a wonderful job of explaining bombing, much better than I could ever expect too.
http://www.angelfire.com/wa3/j79b/bombmanual.html
There are a few different types of bombing for me to know of.
1. Level bombing
Watch your speed. Best at around 14-16 the main thing here is consistency. Faster release earlier slower release later. Try to get an impact just in front of the target.
Markers
Try and mark a point either in f5 view or f1 where your release will make the bomb hit just before the building. I find that in f1 the edge of the cockpit is a good reference when doing 16KM. You will need glide to use the F1 view.
(NOTE) You can avoid the bomb blast by turning after releasing your bomb.
2. Dive bombing
Once all the AA has been destroyed or in the case of factories where there is none. This type of bombing works well. Be sure to give the bomb a second to release before changing the planes trajectory.
3. Turn release bombing
This is one I started using on those low aerodromes in trying to avoid the bomb blast. Basically you try to approach the target at an angle and literally throw the bomb from your plane at an angle in a turn. The reason it works well is because you can be so low on the bombing run. Remember to keep your speed up when doing this type of bombing.
4. Low and Slow bombing
With this type of bombing you want to slow your plane down to stall speed and just keep dropping bombs until the target is down. This works particularly well on bridges allowing you to take the bridge down in one pass. No fear of bomb blast here on bridges. You can even fly between the bridge superstructure in avoiding enemies.
When using this type of bombing on the large Aerodromes you will still have to time your bomb release but you will be practically on top of the target now.
5. High Altitude bombing
Pretty much useless IMHO
6. Rockets
What I've found with rockets is that you have to aim slightly lower than you would aim your machine guns. You must be almost on the target to have any accuracy.
Dogfight (basic)
Pursuits
Aiming
Target Positioning and Range
Deflection (Lead)
Practicing
Sights
Target Fixation
Coordinated Turn
Cut Back Turn
Dive Boom
Climb Zoom
Turn and Burn (angles) VS Boom and Zoom (energy)
TnB
BnZ
Evasion (deflection merge)
Pursuits
When chasing a Spad you will want to use the lead pursuit.
Aiming
You can be the best pilot in the whole sim but if you can’t hit the target your dead!
There are two types of aiming that I know of.
Target positioning/ Range

Machine guns from the Great War were terribly inaccurate weapons on the
ground, let alone in the air. Successful pilots closed to point-blank range
before opening fire.
When you find yourself in a dogfight, don't waste precious ammunition on
long-range shots.
Instead, choose your targets carefully, and then close the range until you are
within about 30 yards of your opponent. (Visible call sign good indicator)
When you open fire, don't hold the trigger down too long. Snap out short,
well-aimed bursts.
Long bursts are likely to jam the machine guns and will waste ammunition.
1. Straight on the target.
Your foe is directly in front of you seldom happens. When it does your shooting directly at his fuselage in a pursuit (not good, unless very close). If you find yourself in this position be careful he doesn’t try to make you over shoot. If you’re in a dive, throttle back for more stability and a longer shooting resolution.
Another known pilot aiming error is to get directly behind an enemy and shoot; Once again you’ll be hitting the fuselage. You’re better of to be either a little above (preferably) below or to the side. This way you can target wings, engine, rudder, and pilot if you feel lucky, engine or rudder assembly.
2. Deflection aiming or leading your target
!
All too often with this type of aiming people don’t tend to lead enough sure you may be hitting him but your hitting his fuselage which we all know is a bullet sink.
If you read up on your WW1 pilot logs you will see that planes that returned had bullet holes in the fuselage. The ones that didn’t well, RIP.
Your better of to walk your bullets into your target so as soon as you start seeing hits try and hold that position. This will be either hitting the engine or the pilot. Either one is good.
If at all possible try to pick a part of the plane and stick with it until it falls of J
There are few known weak points on some planes.
DR1 rudder/elevator
Spad left wing, or flame him from underneath. Spad The only way to catch a spad is to take his engine out.
Phalz big head
D7 engine
Snipe, Sop Trip will still fly reasonably well with top wing gone. Aim for one side or the other and take it of completely.
Just to mention a few.
Practicing
If you feel like practicing your aiming I suggest going online in a empty server preferably one with lots of targets where you won’t affect the outcome of the server and try shooting at the aa and vehicles on the dromes. Added practice here would be to use Immels to regain alt and perpetuate your runs.
Sights
I personally don’t use one. I’ve tried them and I just find they block my view but to each his own.
If you do want to use a sight there are many available on the different sites. A good starting place would be the Wings Of Valor WOV site. http://wingsofvalor.xnbc.org/ Cudas Gun sights as mentioned in the Basic course.
I would recommend getting a sight that works in slew mode if possible.
The game comes with a sight already in the files. You’ll find it in C:/sierra/Redbaron3d/rb2sight. It does a fairly good job at explaining how to install it. It is a rudimentary cross hair site which doesn’t work in slew mode F3.
Target fixation
Don’t bother wasting your ammo chasing a plane hitting his fuselage. The best hit count is when you can see who he is (the whites of his eyes so to speak). Added bonus here if you don’t open fire until in range of a good hit count he may not notice your there and not try and evade you!
The Coordinated Turn (F1)
The Coordinated Turn is a turn in which air speed and altitude is perfectly preserved. Unlike a Break Turn which bleeds air speed badly, the properly executed Coordinated Turn will neither lose air speed or altitude.
The Coordinated Turn is accomplished using a careful coordination between ailerons and rudder. The pilot gently applies back and side pressure on the stick while at the same time applying just enough rudder in the same direction as the side pressure to "balance" all the forces so that the plane gently makes a turn without lose of air speed or altitude. The pilot who is proficient at this manoeuvre is one who has practiced it enough to know just how much control needs to be applied to each of the planes control surfaces to maintain the plane's energy
Cut back turn
How to cut the corner on a circular turning fight
One of the most instructional manoeuvres I have ever learnt. Imagine we are in a turning fight to the right in the horizontal axis. I am behind you but cant quite gain enough to get in a shot. so we end up doing slow tight circles (Lufbery) and loosing altitude until we end up at sea level or one of us stalls in as we push it just a little to far!. One way for me to "cut the corner" on our circle is to simply ease off from our present turn to the right and climb at an angle of 45-60 degrees while still banking to the right. This takes my turn out of the horizontal axis and into the vertical axis. As I am climbing -(the time spent doing the climb is up to you , but I recommend only a short climb as your energy state will be low due to our tight turning)-you continue your turn in the horizontal axis. Reaching the apex of my climb I roll my plane onto its back (using full rudder) and then pull back on the stick to put my plane into a near vertical dive .When I pull out of this dive I will have cut back in on your turn and be more directly behind as your horizontal turning puts your plane into my path. . This type of "cut- back" turn will also give me a better shot at you as I have now decreased the deflection I will have to shoot at.
The theory is, that by turning in the vertical axis I will have flown less total distance than your plane-(because I avoid all those lengthy corners of the circle that you were flying in)- thus I have changed the direction that the nose of my plane is pointing quicker and hence I end up behind you. Note that several small cut-back turns are sometimes required to get in behind a "hard" turning enemy if you both start off low and slow. It is my belief that if my opponent starts pulling this sort of stuff, he or she is one to be wary of. I think it represents that the pilot is now thinking of how to fight in a true 3-dimensional sense
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The Dive (Boom)


The Dive (sometimes called the Boom) is used when attacking an opponent who is at a lower altitude. This manoeuvre exchanges altitude for speed and requires precise gunnery because the attacker typically has but a second or two of firing opportunity.
The Dive is accomplished by applying forward pressure on the stick and perhaps a backing off on the throttle. The Dive is frequently followed by a Zoom to attempt to regain some of the altitude sacrificed during the diving manoeuvre.
The Zoom (climb)

The Zoom is a simple manoeuvre in which the pilot exchanges air speed for altitude. A common mistake that rookies make is to climb at too steep of an angle in which they burn off too much speed and fail to gain the kind of altitude they would like.
The Zoom climb consists of gently pulling back on the stick until just above stall speed and then leveling off at the top of the climb. Make sure you have sufficient air speed before Zooming.. The Zoom is normally performed while the opponent is still some distance away or following a Dive manoeuvre.
Turn & Burn (Angles) vs Boom & Zoom (Energy) Fighting
A dog fighting tactic can be roughly divided into two basic types. Turn & Burn (known as Angles) fighting is a tactic in which a fighter tries to gain a position advantage on his enemy by out-turning him. Energy is always an important consideration in any fight but the T&B fighter relies more on his ability to turn than he does on his energy. A Boom & Zoom (or Energy) fighter on the other hand is constantly building an energy advantage (zoom) and then converting that energy to a snapshot (boom) opportunity.
T&B Fighting
(DR1)The tactic a fighter chooses depends to a large degree on the type of aircraft the pilot is flying and the type of aircraft of his enemy. The classic T&B aircraft is one with a light wing loading and a less than superior dive capability. Relatively low powered aircraft often find an advantage by employing a T&B style of dog fighting.. The T&B pilot will rely heavily on his aircraft's ability to turn inside his enemy so as to slip onto his six to obtain a good close-in opportunity. The pilot of a good T&B fighter will try to lure his higher wing loaded counterpart into a turn fight. If his opponent complies, the T&B pilot will allow his enemy to chase him into a turn until he eventually is able to turn inside the less capable aircraft and setup for a high percentage kill. A bad habit many T&B pilots develop is their tendency to rely entirely on the T&B tactic and forget about energy management. To illustrate, two similar aircraft utilizing T&B tactics to an extreme could result in both aircraft attempting to turn inside one another and continuing to chase one another around in a circle. Such a stalemate has been called a "Lufbery" named after the WWI American ace, Raoul Lufbery who was believed to have developed this tactic. The Lufbery is not considered to be a very effective tactic. In fact, many inexperienced fighters tend to fall into the Lufbery habit which more often than not results in loss of their life.
B&Z Fighting (DVii)
The B&Z fighter relies primarily on gaining an energy advantage over his enemy. Beginning from a higher altitude than the bogey, the B&Z fighter will enter into a dive developing maximum airspeed. He will then use this excess airspeed to attack (boom) the bogey and obtain a snapshot opportunity. Before the enemy can retaliate, the attacker will pull hard into a climb (zoom) and convert his airspeed back into altitude thus maintaining his energy advantage. A good B&Z pilot must be more patient than the T&B fighter. The T&B attacker will work his way into a position where he can slide "into the saddle" and line up for a sustained firing opportunity on his enemy's six o'clock position. The B&Z attacker will typically only possess a second or two to get off a shot before he must zoom out. Good marksmanship and lethal gunnery combine with a high powered aircraft capable of developing good diving speed and the power to climb out make up the ingredients of a classic B&Z aircraft. WWI examples of primarily B&Z aircraft are the Allied Camel, Snipe, Spad, N28 and SE 5 HUN DVii, Phalz and to some extent Alb D2-3-5. These aircraft possess excellent diving speed, tremendous horse power, and deadly fire power. Just as with the T&B fighter, the B&Z pilot must not rely entirely on the energy tactic. This is especially important when you have inflicted a significant hit on your bogey. Rather than continuing to boom and zoom, it may be that your opponent's capability to turn has been seriously lessened so that you can manoeuvre into position for a typical T&B kill. As with any kind of warfare, aggressiveness is the key to B&Z fighting and the tactician must always seek to take the offensive. Depending on the type of aircraft and the situation, a combination of T&B and B&Z tactics can give a fighter a significant advantage. Knowledge of the characteristics of his own aircraft and the other aircraft around him provide the pilot with proper style of fighting he should employ.
Evasion
If your opponent dives on you, do not try to evade his onslaught, but fly to meet it.

